Poet-Lab Revolutionised the Neo-Subversive Market at London Fashion Week AW26
by Alexandra Jude-Walker
Poet-Lab had an immeasurable impact on London Fashion Week this year, seamlessly merging streetwear and the avant-garde in their innovative contemporary designs. They aren’t afraid of subverting the stereotypical norm that high fashion still influences the modern day, breaking down the barrier between creativity and compliance. Creative director and designer Giuseppe Laciofano’s belief:
“Poet-Lab is for the individuals who see fashion not as occasion-bound, but as a daily expression of self.”
This concept reveals itself in every design and begs the question, how can we be fashionably rebellious in our everyday lives?
Poet-Lab represents freedom of expression, regardless of gender, age, or size; their models reflect the principles they inspire, showcasing both older and gender-fluid models. The designs I witnessed for this collection were a testament to the dismantling of gender constructs; they showed that femininity/masculinity are within every person, and that fashion is about representation, not conformity.
“A space where fashion becomes a language of thought, emotion and identity”
Laciofano’s collection was a powerful statement against our expectations of what fashion should look like, while remaining visually breathtaking. Visceral reactions were evident in the audience, as it was a struggle not to be transfixed by the pieces. The stark contrast between the sheer white curtains and the chromatic designs awakens a sense of fascination. I noted how for every design, there was a unique walk to accompany it. This is a genius idea from Laciofano, as it amplifies the collection's individualistic nature. It felt as though every piece had its own personality; some were more mysterious, and others were brave and bold, allowing the audience to see themselves in his work. The connection between the collection and the designer is one Laciofano doesn’t take for granted.
This was the showstopping, elegant minimalism that encapsulated the entire show. A heavy lasting train swept the floor in fearless grand motions, and the model dominated the room, evoking a sense of intimated awe about it. Their hips swayed down the runway as they made sure to catch the eyes of every person there. A hardened rock glam look turned this design from regal to fearsome.
The philosophy of the collection can be seen in Laciofano’s use of a monochromatic colour palette; the visual contrast grabs the audience's attention to look at the continuous connection between sophistication and grunge. These two worlds don’t normally collide when it comes to high fashion, but Poet-Lab isn’t an ordinary brand; it challenges the preconceptions of what art should look like.
Poet-Lab has gained immense attention since its launch in 2023. People from all walks of life lined the perimeter of the building in hopes they might be able to see the show. I saw people in Harajuku outfits, to others in kitten heels and the classic trench coat, only amplifying that this show is for everyone, no matter your aesthetic. Laciofano has gained a community of people who value self-expression over conformity, which in the current political climate is critical.