by Yuan-Yuan Watkis
Copenhagen Fashion Week AW23 was a feast for the senses and truly a celebration of fashion at its finest. From cozy layering to bold jewel tones and a strong emphasis on sustainability, the runway was alive with energy and the latest fashion trends.
Layering was a key feature throughout the week. Designers such as Ganni and Saks Potts presented a range of oversized coats,denium looks, chunky knitwear, and voluminous scarves that exuded sophistication and effortlessness. Its clear that layering is the ultimate way to stay warm and stylish this winter.
Another standout feature? Denim. B-Corp certified brand, Ganni, seem to be transitioning away from leather allowing denim to regain its place as a staple in collections, embodying Ganni’s aim to bring fun and accessible fashion to all. With a vibe that combines modern aesthetics with hippie elements, the brand “joined forces” with artist Esben Weile Kjær for this collection. A Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts graduate, the musical background of Kjær shines through in #GANNIBUTTERFLIES.
The Saks Potts show at Copenhagen Fashion Week was a family affair as parents were seen walking the runway hand in hand with their children. The collection blended classic luxury with a utilitarian edge, featuring materials like Harris tweed, leather, and shearling.
The brand has been working hard on sustainability, with a whopping 70% of their materials now certified. The show also included genderless uniform pieces for men, which were unsurprisingly well-received. These key features reinforced the brand's commitment to sustainability and inclusiveness, two main priorities within the current social climate.
Another trend that stole the show was the use of rich, jewel-toned hues. Brands like Stine Goya and Baum und Pferdgarten sent models down the runway in a spectrum of emerald greens, sapphire blues, and deep burgundy reds, adding a bold pop of color to the monochromatic Scandinavian aesthetic we all know and love.
Stine Goya’s latest collection for Copenhagen Fall 2023 was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s ‘Snow Queen’ and ski resorts like Aspen. The collection features patterned jacquards, metallic embellishments, and sequin embroideries, all which mimicked snowflakes and could be seen embellishing both faux furs and down the sides of their trousers.
Stine’s signature checkerboard sweater also made an appearance. The designer focuses on sporty looks for ski and après ski, with close-to-the-body jumpsuits that added to their cosy and warm collection.
Liquid silk pants were a standout in the show, with the designer taking her bow in a pair. Stine’s collections continue to evolve, moving away from hand-drawn prints to focus on bold patterns and statement pieces.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Baum und Pferdgarten debuted its latest collection for the upcoming fall season, and the theme was heavily influenced by the iconic characters from the movie "The Royal Tenenbaums". From the signature yellow tent on the runway to the use of argyle socks, red hair clips, and Mary-Janes, it was clear that the designer had the film's fashion in mind.
The collection also included elements from other characters such as the tennis-ball prints inspired by the films character, Richie. Standout pieces included a see-through floral mesh dress and a white blouse and skirt printed with a sketch of one of the films character, Margot's, face. While the neon puffer jacket and matching skirt also featured in the collection didn't quite capture the films spirit, overall it is sure to be a hit with fans of the timeless movie.
The real showstopper came from the (Di)vision show. Featuring an innovative use of technology and avant-garde design, the show was truly mesmerising. It’s clear that (Di)vision is a leader in the integration of fashion and technology.
The final look of the "Dressed for Disaster" show was particularly striking, and a true testament to the brand's unique sense of style. Showcased at an after-party event, there was a deliberate imperfection.
The brand’s co-founders, Simon and Nanna Wick, have added an important new category to the brand: knits. Adding to their focus on wearability, (Di)vision’s anti-fashion ethos is truly prevalent. The brand also responds to the climate crisis by working with deadstock material that’s available in irregular quantities, turning irregularity and imperfection into their assets. A standout characteristic of the brand is the community built around it.
The highlight of the (Di)vision show was focused on Sarah Dahl, who was dressed in a stunning pink corset and mini skirt. The Asics shoes she was wearing, one of many pairs customized for the event, added a sporty touch to her elegant ensemble. The train of her skirt was a tablecloth that had been used during the event, complete with half-eaten plates of food still on top. Her fearless and bold move to stand up and walk with the tablecloth as her train, causing mess and noise along with it, was a statement that has instantly gone viral online.
All in all, Copenhagen Fashion Week AW23 was a testament to the city's unique sense of style and commitment to sustainability. From layering items to bold hues and cutting-edge designs, this season's offerings have left a lasting impression on me and I can't wait to see what's next in store for fashion lovers everywhere.