Skip to main content

MTG at London Fashion Week: Where Culture Met Couture

by Miette Dsouza

As the lights beam in a little warehouse located in the vibrant district of Shoreditch – an almost antiseptic looking catwalk is graced by models strutting down in sheer dresses, opulent ancient jewellery and… crocs. 



Yuqing Lai and Cristine Xu's collection, 'Fisher Woman's Culture', is an ode to generations of Chinese Huian fisherwomen and Baiyue heritage. Lai and Xu do an excellent job of weaving their culture into the fabric of their collection. 


3D motifs like bio-based leather flowers manufactured by Vegatex mirror the floral-patterned head scarves commonly worn by women from Huian. 


The avant-garde “six-leaf flowers” are made from sustainably sourced faux leather made from recycled beer and fermented brewer’s grain. MTG puts sustainability at the core of its collection by sourcing recycled fabrics for their designs as well as incorporating zero-waste tailoring.


Elements of fisherwoman clothing were also incorporated into the looks right from conical yellow hats to boxy structured jackets and wide-leg pants which symbolise the embracing of femininity amongst newer generations of the community.



The blue, black and white hues beautifully amalgamate to parallel the maritime aesthetic and the ocean on the runway. Lai and Xu’s hard work when conducting field research in Fujian, China, halfway across the world did not go to waste. Their dedication can easily be observed in every nuance and detail right down to the shoes. 


Crocs are typically known for their water-replant properties and are the perfect ergonomic shoe for fisherwomen in the Fujian province to wear for fishing. The leather six flower petal details to the crocks were a lovely addition and even upgraded the look of the chunky shoes.


An outfit that very quickly became the most memorable ensemble from the collection was one that was effortlessly maximalist. The model sported oversized black leather pants with only beaded and metallic jewellery covering the top half of her body. 


The beaded tassels were reminiscent of shells and coupled beautifully with the ancient metallic chains which made the whole outfit look delicate yet deadly. Another outfit which stuck with me was an all-white look which sported sequins that shone under the lights mimicking the scales of fish or the shine of the moonlight on water paired with heavy metallic accessories. 



The theme of the outfits having delicate materials like sheer, mesh tops and dainty beaded accessories or sequins in juxtaposition to tough leather and hard metals mirrored the duality and lives of the Huian fisherwomen beautifully.


Their aim to be one of a kind and to stand alone and away from fast fashion trends reigns true as they have managed to create a unique line with symbolism and their culture embedded in every thread. Creativity is a key strength of the up-and-coming designers and can be seen through their use of macrame weaving they incorporated into the outfits as well.



Through their collection, MTG tries to portray the allure of a dying craft, the unpredictable happiness of fisherwomen and their awakening female consciousness. Xu and Lai’s collaboration with Sedrin – a brand under Budweiser originating in Fujian is dedicated to preserving local culture, is giving Chinese Baiyue culture a new lease of life and rejuvenating it sustainably.


MTG combines and contrasts modern silhouettes with ethnic elements in the most tactful way and I can only hope to see more designers incorporate their culture on the catwalk.

 

Edited by Emily Duff

Most Popular

Fashion For a Cause: Brands That Stand with Palestine and the history of fashion as a form of Activism

by Oana-Maria Moldovan For over two months, there has been an ongoing genocide war in Gaza. To simplify a long and horrific issue, the situation that started, on a larger scale, around one hundred years ago, and has only become amplified since October 7th 2023. Taking place around the Gaza Strip, the West Bank, and Israel–Lebanon border, the armed conflict is between Israel and Hamas-led Palestinian militant groups.  The problem is about “stolen” land. Said land is seen as an important holy part of both religions involved. But really, how holy can we consider a land to be, if people kill other people for it? It’s important to remember that this genocide is about three things: forced occupation, zionism, and religion. It’s also important to remember what ethnic erasure is. This terrible expresion, also known as cultural or ethnic assimilation, refers to the process by which the distinct cultural or ethnic identity of a particular group is gradually diminished or erased, often due to ext

Now What? The Aftermath of the 'Manic Pixie Dream Girl'

by Susan Moore Here is a bit about me: I am an open, excitable, creative AFAB who is also moderately attractive. I have a unique sense of personal style and a personality that on the surface can only be described as “bubbly” and “quirky”. For this reason, dating is a nightmare. To be sure, I do not have a hard time finding dates or potential suitors. The problems arise when said dates spend some time with me and decide that I am a rare specimen, and the connection they feel with me is “unlike anything they have felt before”. Then, things go one of two ways.  Either a) they decide I am too high maintenance and no longer palatable, or  b) they choose to never look further than the surface and are content to date the idea of me rather than the real me. There is something rather interesting, perhaps funny, about my situation. It is in no way unique. I have met so many people who constantly dealt with the same problem. Even funnier still, is the fact that there is a trope that simultaneousl

‘Make Tattooing Safe Again’: Sheffield Based Tattoo Artist Exposed for Indecent Behaviour

 by Emily Fletcher TW: SA, Animal Abuse, Transphobia Photo Credit: @ meiko_akiz uki Recently, an  Instagram account  has been created to provide a  ‘space to safely give a voice to those who want to speak out about the behaviour of one, Sheffield based tattoo artist’. A  total of 40+ posts have been made by the above social media account regarding  one of Sheffield's most popular tattoo artists .  Thankfully, all posts are prefaced with a Content Warning prior to sharing screenshots of the messages that have been sent anonymously to the page. The majority of Content Warnings refer to sexual behaviour, abuse, and sexual assault. It is clear that there is a reoccurring theme within each submission, as many clients appear to have had the same experiences with the tattoo artist. Women, mostly, are being made to feel uncomfortable while being tattooed. One of the most vulnerable positions anyone can be in, tattoo artists should make their clients feel comfortable and safe during the pro