Skip to main content

Anciela’s Latest Collection Brought Sustainability and Latin History to London Fashion Week

by Tia Janowski

 

Anciela took over Crypt on the Green in London on the 18th of September to showcase their newest collection, “Latin Notes” at London Fashion Week. A historic venue with its brick ceiling and warm-toned wood flooring combined with the dark, atmospheric lighting of the show, Crypt on the Green was the perfect place to showcase this collection.


Founded by Colombian and Chilean designer, Jennifer Drougett Espinosa, Anciela strongly values inclusivity, sustainability and creativity. 


Espinosa created the brand to explore her South American roots, drawing inspiration from diverse backgrounds and cultures. She often uses Latin folklore, craft and childhood memories, as well as her experiences of being an outsider in London, as inspiration for her designs. She also heavily draws inspiration from literature, historical costumes and surrealist artists such as Leonor Fini and Remedios Varo.

 

“Latin Notes” is the result of four years of collaboration and creative expression, celebrating Latinx art and tradition whilst also addressing the importance of identity, immigration, and environmental responsibility. 


“Migration is a profound journey that prompts introspection, encouraging us to ponder the essence of our individuality and the transformative power of life experiences” the press release states. The collection is a personal exploration of what it means to be a Latin immigrant living in London whilst also exploring what it means to be a designer during this time of environmental challenges.  

 

Following her goals to be environmentally conscious, this collection uses various sustainable materials, including deadstock poplins, Irish hemp-linen jacquards, recycled British yarns from Linouiio and vibrant deadstock fabrics by artist Allegra Hicks. 

Collaborating with Studio Kuhu, this collection also features signature blends of Mexican dyes, including cochineal from Oaxaca, Mexico. In Mexico, natural dyes are used to convey stories and symbolise identity to connect with Mexico's land and history. The sustainable materials alongside dyes from Mexico strongly tie this collection to Epinosa’s inspirations and its values as a brand.

 

“Latin Notes” showcases a diverse collection including everyday wearable pieces like maxi dresses and puffy jackets and more artistic garments such as a cage dress embellished with origami butterflies. The clothing pieces, including short blazer dresses and colourful, tight body suits, are well-suited to modern fashion, highlighting the model’s feminine figure in a non-stereotypical way. 


Many of the garments feature large shoulders and voluminous sleeves while maintaining a natural flow with unique and abstract shapes. The designs incorporate elements such as open backs, halter necks, and exposed skin, providing a flattering fit that will make anyone feel confident.

 

This collection showcases a range of patterns and experimental techniques that exude a powerful seventies vibe, as demonstrated by the prominent use of teardrop and bleach patterns. The orange jumpsuit is a prime example of this inspiration, featuring a low-halter back and flared legs. The use of natural and vibrant colours reflects the influence of surrealism and aligns with the collection's sustainable ethos.

The models were the highlight of this showcase, embodying the brand's inclusive ideals with a diverse mix of ages, sizes, ethnicities, and gender identities. It was truly wonderful to witness the wearability of the collection, as each piece was expertly tailored to flatter the model's individual features. The models brought their own unique flair to the show, with some dancing, others moving freely, and some sticking to traditional walks that felt natural to them. This personal touch added depth to the performance and made the collection feel accessible to all.

Singer, Desta French displayed the final garment: a long, quilted purple dress. Designed to expose the skin in various experimental ways, the dress was draped to flow naturally despite the weight of the fabric. The outfit was completed with a matching angled headpiece and long orange gloves, which blended seamlessly with the rest of the collection. While walking down the runway, the designer, Espinosa, followed the model with a cart containing a jar of natural dye with an altered PH and a paintbrush. She proceeded to paint French's dress and headpiece for several minutes, creating a design that matched the floral pattern present throughout the collection. The process was captivating to watch, with French moving her body on the spot whilst Espinosa painted her to showcase the outfit.


The show came to an end with a stunning performance by Desta French and Viva Msimang, while the models took their final walk down the runway. Maestra Eliania Echeverry's musical composition, which was inspired by the Llanero tradition and Manuel Rangel's rhythmic interpretation of the maracas, accompanied the showcase. The eclectic mix of sounds complemented the collection beautifully.


The showcase was a brilliant way to present this unique collection. The inclusivity, location, and set design allowed the collection to shine and display new creativity on the catwalk. The runway was in an M shape with the audience going around it, meaning everyone had a full view of the pieces, making it an immersive experience. The show was cohesive and reflective of 
Anciela as a brand, perfectly showcasing Jennifer Drougett Espinosa’s inspiration and views. This showcase was the perfect introduction to the brand, bringing sustainable designs to London Fashion Week in a creative, performative way.  

Images by Kiera Chevell

Most Popular

‘Make Tattooing Safe Again’: Sheffield Based Tattoo Artist Exposed for Indecent Behaviour

 by Emily Fletcher TW: SA, Animal Abuse, Transphobia Photo Credit: @ meiko_akiz uki Recently, an  Instagram account  has been created to provide a  ‘space to safely give a voice to those who want to speak out about the behaviour of one, Sheffield based tattoo artist’. A  total of 40+ posts have been made by the above social media account regarding  one of Sheffield's most popular tattoo artists .  Thankfully, all posts are prefaced with a Content Warning prior to sharing screenshots of the messages that have been sent anonymously to the page. The majority of Content Warnings refer to sexual behaviour, abuse, and sexual assault. It is clear that there is a reoccurring theme within each submission, as many clients appear to have had the same experiences with the tattoo artist. Women, mostly, are being made to feel uncomfortable while being tattooed. One of the most vulnerable positions anyone can be in, tattoo artists should make their clients feel comfortable and safe during the pro

Eurydice’s Last Words

by Kate Bradley I do not want to return To sit in the stalls, Of an empty black box Strewn with petals Leave the ghost light on, Let it shine like a call home, But I will not come back To turn it off alone. I learn this as we walk Our ever so solemn path Our thudding funeral march, You think we’re going back. As I trace my old steps, I fear of the day When the symphony swells, And I land my gaze On you, yet you will be Enraptured by the sound, If you did twist To turn around, You would not see me. So I am not sorry, I speak out into the empty air And I am not sorry. “Turn Around.” You do, you look You think  I fall But I run on, Arms wide open To fall in love With it all “Perhaps she was the one who said, ‘Turn around.” On the X45 bus, back from the Tyneside Cinema, I wrote a poem entitled “Eurydice’s Final Words”, after having seen “Portrait of a Lady on Fire”.  That poem was terrible, so I wrote a new one, as my response to the beautifully poignant film.  In one scene, Héloïse, an 18

Single Review: ‘Tell Me’ - Jay Moussa-Mann

by Ilana Hawdon The feeling of pure betrayal and heartbreak is perfectly captured in Jay Moussa-Mann’s latest single, ‘Tell Me’. Jay Moussa-Mann is the folk dream we have been waiting for. A favourite on BBC Introducing, Radio 6 and BBC Radio Tees, Jay ’s sound is easy on the ears but delightfully addictive. With a background in writing and film, she began her solo musical venture when she released her debut album, ‘Little Deaths’ in late-2019, and since then, Moussa-Mann has defined herself as an artist with unbelievable range and promise.    ‘Tell Me’ is completely timeless; with notes of Carole King and Joni Mitchell, Moussa-Mann creates a folk-inspired track which is simultaneously heart wrenching and strangely empowering. Beginning as a simple guitar tune, ‘Tell Me’ builds with layers of luscious strings and twinkling piano, tied together with Jay ’s vocal line which is equal parts melancholic and divine. The song feels unwaveringly intimate; the lyrics ask, ‘what was I worth?’