by Miette Dsouza
Aside from anticipated shows by established brands, London Fashion Week also allows for the discovery of new names.
Host to three upcoming fashion designers, each with varying aesthetics and unique perspectives, Future Collectives makes space for these names.
Featuring Maximilian Raynor, Gazal Mishra and Kim Perets, each provide a glimpse into the future of fashion and needless to say it’s one with animal prints, laser cutouts and sustainable designs.
Even though Maximilian Raynor is a recent graduate from Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion course, he is far from amateur. He is already carving a space for his designs in the world of haute couture and cementing his name as one of London Fashion Week’s highly anticipated designers.
In his newest collection at London Fashion Week SS24 he utilizes a black, eggshell and amber colour scheme on exaggerated coats and jackets, all made from British wool, animal print denim and hand-feathered silk organza. Raynor’s ‘The Hotel For Heaven: Prologue’ line continues to explore newer patterns which almost look like uniforms and his defiant ideology of staying away from gender norms, whilst still giving his ‘Ribbons’ collection a new lease on life.
He uses his dystopian hotel to create characters whose personalities are brought out by their garments.
These characters include “The Moirai Bellboys,” a witch-like trio who greet you at the hotel doors but already know your fate one of whom graced the runway in his cream oversized jacket, short shorts and patent leather hat. Whilst “The Bullingdon Butler” did not make an appearance with his anarchic, rebellious personality, a figure similar to the devil himself, who is the manager of this hotel did have his moment.
The ethereal, layered ribbon black and white outfit in juxtaposition to an all-black organza sheer look with red boots really played on the heaven and hell symbolism thought the show. These two looks particularly had my heart and them being styled with silver sinners and saints crowns from jusjjjewellery was truly iconic. Raynor did not miss any details and even designed the shoes to match his collection and was very on trend with a square toe and heel in lacquer red and even animal print.
With glam rock anthems as Raynor’s backdrop, the upbeat soundtrack only echoed the vivacity of his collection.
This South Asian designer spotlighted her culture at London Fashion Week SS24 and did not shy away from modernising Indian outfits as she incorporated traditional embroidery patterns on a more western silhouette. Gazal Mishra’s collection also hosted the perfect muted summer colour palette of beige, pink and mauve.
Not a single flower on the garments was out-of-place and stood out in stark contrast to the demure colour palette with bright coral and dark blue, yet still managed to compliment the colour scheme beautifully.
Traditionally, such intricate embroidery is found on Indian ethnic clothing such as kurtis, anarkalis or saris but Mishra layers them on mini skirts and dresses too, playing around with a more Indo-western aesthetic. Her attention to detail was particularly refreshing as she even styled her models in ‘Kolhapuri chappals’ which are handcrafted leather slippers made and commonly worn in India. In order to not completely westernize her line, Mishra even had models strut down the runway in lightweight anarkalis and patterned cigarette trousers with an Indian peplum top.
Using sustainably sourced fabric and through her brand empowering local artisans and craftsmen, Mishra seamlessly interweaves her culture with environmental consciousness.
Kim Perets is a Tel-Aviv based designer and illustrated her line through architectural cut-outs and gorgeous colours. Her “Ivy Interlace” collection combines innovation and artistry as she draws on architectural lattice work, she’s grown up around and its relationship with nature.
Peret’s delicate designs take’s precedence as the careful geometric and floral cut-outs made by lasers are symmetrically placed on blazers, midi dresses, trousers and even hats. She uses a plethora of material ranging from organza and tissue cloth to a more satiny fabric. The garments aren’t lined with fabric and if it is, it’s usually underlined with a sheer fabric. Through, keeping the garments sheer and with carved-out designs, Peret echoes the essence of a world where fashion is meant to reveal, not just to cover, as she so aptly describes her brand.