Skip to main content

Less Than 1% of Looks at SS24 Were Plus-Size - And That’s Actually an Increase From Last Season

by Ally McLaren


The Spring/Summer 2024 runway season wrapped earlier this month, featuring hundreds of star-studded fashion shows in London, Paris, Milan and New York. 


Renowned fashion houses and up-and-coming designer brands showcased their latest collections to A-list models and attendees, gathered to celebrate what’s new fashion.

 

But, what was missing from 99% of this season was size inclusivity.

 


Vogue Business’ analysis of the SS24 womenswear shows found that less than 1% of the looks at SS24 shows were plus-size.

 

The size inclusivity report for SS24 analysed all the shows and presentations to determine the total looks that were straight-size, mid-size and plus-size. Out of 9,584 looks, 0.9% were plus-size, while 3.9% were mid-size.

 

However, it’s important to mention those who made an effort. Included in the top five most inclusive shows were designers Karoline Vitto and Chopova Lowena in joint first, followed by Bach Mai, Palmer Harding, Di Petsa and Patrick McDowel. 


These statistics prove that smaller, independent, mainly female designers are more focused on including a diverse range of models and looks over larger fashion houses and big-name designers. 


Luxury brands Balenciaga, Ferragamo and Mugler did make a positive change, having been included on the top rankings for inclusivity for the first time during reporting. Despite this, the majority of brands still have a long way to go. 

 

This is an improvement, albeit a minor one, from the statistics that Vogue Business reported for the AW23 looks, where only 0.6% were plus-size. 


While an improvement is an improvement, if we can only hope to see a rise of 0.3% of inclusivity between seasons, it is going to take far too long for runway shows and fashion collections to be anywhere near as diverse and representative of the people who wear their clothes.

 

In 2022, The British Fashion Council and the MBS Group launched a Diversity & Inclusion (D&I) report analysing how this is being prioritised across the industry. This research further demonstrated the urgent need for change throughout all levels of organisations. The aim is to provide a benchmark for progress to hold organisations to account and to act as a tool for businesses who want to prioritise diversity and inclusion.

 

Rather than brands thinking about how they can do the minimum to tick a box, the focus should be on the long-term impact across the entire industry. 


A lack of representation leads to isolation for a huge community of consumers who will feel as though the statement from brands is that their clothes are not for you. This not only can remove a huge target audience for brands, but as diversity becomes more of an important consideration for all consumers and investors, it can hurt reputation and sales.

 

As fashion is the way that so many of us represent our individual style and personalities, it’s extremely hurtful for brands to deliberately isolate people who look like me. Plus-size people just want to see themselves represented, included and respected in the same way that straight-size people are. The best designers create clothes for people and not for coat hangers, embracing that looks can accentuate all people and all bodies.


Edited by Emily Duff

Most Popular

‘Make Tattooing Safe Again’: Sheffield Based Tattoo Artist Exposed for Indecent Behaviour

 by Emily Fletcher TW: SA, Animal Abuse, Transphobia Photo Credit: @ meiko_akiz uki Recently, an  Instagram account  has been created to provide a  ‘space to safely give a voice to those who want to speak out about the behaviour of one, Sheffield based tattoo artist’. A  total of 40+ posts have been made by the above social media account regarding  one of Sheffield's most popular tattoo artists .  Thankfully, all posts are prefaced with a Content Warning prior to sharing screenshots of the messages that have been sent anonymously to the page. The majority of Content Warnings refer to sexual behaviour, abuse, and sexual assault. It is clear that there is a reoccurring theme within each submission, as many clients appear to have had the same experiences with the tattoo artist. Women, mostly, are being made to feel uncomfortable while being tattooed. One of the most vulnerable positions anyone can be in, tattoo artists should make their clients feel comfortable and safe during the pro

Now What? The Aftermath of the 'Manic Pixie Dream Girl'

by Susan Moore Here is a bit about me: I am an open, excitable, creative AFAB who is also moderately attractive. I have a unique sense of personal style and a personality that on the surface can only be described as “bubbly” and “quirky”. For this reason, dating is a nightmare. To be sure, I do not have a hard time finding dates or potential suitors. The problems arise when said dates spend some time with me and decide that I am a rare specimen, and the connection they feel with me is “unlike anything they have felt before”. Then, things go one of two ways.  Either a) they decide I am too high maintenance and no longer palatable, or  b) they choose to never look further than the surface and are content to date the idea of me rather than the real me. There is something rather interesting, perhaps funny, about my situation. It is in no way unique. I have met so many people who constantly dealt with the same problem. Even funnier still, is the fact that there is a trope that simultaneousl

Eurydice’s Last Words

by Kate Bradley I do not want to return To sit in the stalls, Of an empty black box Strewn with petals Leave the ghost light on, Let it shine like a call home, But I will not come back To turn it off alone. I learn this as we walk Our ever so solemn path Our thudding funeral march, You think we’re going back. As I trace my old steps, I fear of the day When the symphony swells, And I land my gaze On you, yet you will be Enraptured by the sound, If you did twist To turn around, You would not see me. So I am not sorry, I speak out into the empty air And I am not sorry. “Turn Around.” You do, you look You think  I fall But I run on, Arms wide open To fall in love With it all “Perhaps she was the one who said, ‘Turn around.” On the X45 bus, back from the Tyneside Cinema, I wrote a poem entitled “Eurydice’s Final Words”, after having seen “Portrait of a Lady on Fire”.  That poem was terrible, so I wrote a new one, as my response to the beautifully poignant film.  In one scene, Héloïse, an 18