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What To Expect from the Upcoming AW24 Fashion Season

by Ana Reitz

As per every season, London, Milan, and Paris will be host to the latest fashion collections from brands large and small.  

While every city features unique characteristics, they also evoke distinctive emotions. Each has its unique approach, with its own trademarks and particular features. 

The question on everyone’s lips which pop-up events, designers, and trends can we expect from each of them? Read ahead to find the answers.

London Fashion Week: February, Thursday 15th to Tuesday 20th

Famous for its conceptual looks and rising talent, London Fashion Week will undoubtedly display grunge and pun aesthetics jam packed with drama and presented by both classic and up-and-coming British labels. 

With London Fashion Week celebrating their 40th anniversary, there’s a lot of anticipation for the upcoming AW24 shows. 

Expected to take the spotlight are Di Petsa’s signature fluid look and mythological-like pieces (1pm, Mon 19th), Simone Rocha's subversive masculine and feminine vision (6pm, Sat 17th), and Burberry’s refined staples with their new youthful approach (6pm, Mon 19th). 

When it comes to the future of fashion, Friday 16th’s 9pm slot will be a tell-all, going to Central Saint Martins MA Fashion Catwalk. This is an opportunity to learn more about what young designers are focused on. 

Saturday 17th is perhaps most exciting with 16arlington at 11am, followed by Molly Goddard and ERDEM at 2 and 3pm respectively. 

After winning ‘Designer of the Year’ during December’s Fashion Awards, a British Fashion Council event, Jonathan Anderson’s namesake brand, JW Anderson, will gain much attention. Known for playing with materials, construction, fabric, and over-the-top accessories, all eyes will be on the brand’s first collection since the win at 11am on Sunday 18th. 

Similarly, later on the Sunday, 4pm to be exact, sees Conner Ives’ first show since Fashion Awards win. Walking away with the ‘BFC Foundation Designer Award,’ the American designer, with a Central Saint Martin’s degree and London studio, is known for a nostalgic design process inspired by the people he grew up with. 

When speaking of the industry’s highlights, one can't forget about Dilara Findikoglu. The brand presents a balance between its craft and emotion, often touching the audience watching their show, no matter if viewed in-person or online. With a show at 8pm, Sunday 18th Findikoglu is thankfully making a return following financial difficulties that prevented her from doing so last year. 

Milan Fashion Week: February, Tuesday 20th to Monday 26th

While London presents innovation, Milan is the epicentre of glamour, featuring leading designers. 

With an abundance of technical excellence aligned with its luxurious materials, Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta will stand out among the Italian designers with its typical leather manipulation. 

On the topic of material exploration, Diesel instantly comes to mind. As a signature of the label, denim appears in Glenn Martens' latest collection worked over, being either chopped, ripped, or fully embraced in tie-dye, bleaches, oversizes, knits, flocks, fringes, and even sunburnt denim. 

Incorporating latex in Diesel's fabric list, Martens will surely keep revitalizing and democratizing the label, talking to customers and including them in such a fun, hot, and fashionable creative process. 

Also know for their inventive processes, Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo. Having won the ‘Womenswear Designer’ at the Fashion Awards, this show is, again, high anticipated. 

Fearlessly renovating the exceptional label's elegance, Davis went into the 2023 seasons by producing timeless designs that included contemporary components while maintaining Ferragamo's refinement. The designs feature artistic references and vibrant colors, such as blue and sage green, with Davis' clear vision of invention. 

Resulting in success, the designer will persist in drawing inspiration from the pure and oblique art that pervades our society, along with his impressive palette, creating extravagant evening wear with a modern touch. 

Still in contemporary brands, Sunnei arises as one of the highlights in Milan. Last season, Sunnei went viral for giving their audience the final word - letting the spectators hold signs to rate the outfits out of 10 - and we can’t wait to see how Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina will top themselves with their latest contribution to fashion for AW24. 

Although Milan guarantees the precise creative direction of some brands, others remain a mystery. Who will take over Moschino? What is Fendi’s current goal? Will Peter Hawkings show a bit of himself in Tom Ford? What will Miuccia Prada do? Will Gucci remain in their quiet luxury era? For those, only the future will tell. 

What is known worldwide though is Versace’s coherence. Always with glamour and a unique fanciness, Donatella Versace translates her brother's codes into her own, giving fashion a luxurious, shiny, and fresh life. And Versace AW 2024 won’t be different. 

Paris Fashion Week: February, Monday 26th to March, Tuesday 5th

As the ultimate Haute Couture destination, Paris Fashion Week showcases strong collections in the most prestigious of venues. Some may immediately think of Dior, Saint Laurent, and Chanel, although these brands have become predictable over time. Others, however, surprise us every season.

With a mixture of couture and ready-to-wear, Daniel Roseberry will maintain Schiaparelli's signature opulence while honoring the legacy of the label's founder. 

Schiaparelli will once again be at the forefront of the fashion world's minds with rebuke pieces, exquisite draping, and a mix of textures. 

Along with more intriguing textures, Hodakova is expected to continue to focus on sustainability themes, this time upcycling a lot more fun materials. 

Again, in the topic of upcycling, Maison Margiela is set to showcase its ecological signature dramatic flair with its models gracing the runway with a mesmerizing presence that transcends the ordinary. 

Going beyond the usual, Loewe will remain the frivolous, funky, humorous label that Jonathan Anderson made it known as, with different materials, meticulous details,and creative pieces.

Meanwhile, Olivier Rousteing will continue to deliver the signature Pierre Balmain references while translating them into a more up-to-date font. 

The AW24 collection is expected to be a sensation, following the success of the SS24 ready-to-wear, and RENAISSANCE collection in partnership with pop icon Beyoncé. Seeing Queen B's closing the Balmain runway in an elaborately crafted Rousteing-made look is tempting, and undoubtedly, would be a star moment. 

In this shimmering season where nothing is impossible, we wait, and while we do so, Rabanne’s notoriety will increase even more, where its metallic bodices, dresses, tops, and headpieces become authentic fashion jewels.

Although there is a degree of confidence in the fashion world, doubts return. Post Matthews Williams departure, will Givenchy bring Haute Couture back with their new creative director? 

How will Alexander McQueen's legacy be carried on without the great creative direction of Sarah Burton? Can Chloé function sans Gabriela Hearst? Will Miu Miu keep exploring geek chic as its popularity rapidly gained a significant presence on social media and in the current generation? Will Casey Cadwallader’s Mugler keep relating to Manfred Thierry Mugler’s legacy or the cut-out looks became the label’s new base? 

Again, only time will tell. 

Edited by Emily Duff

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