Skip to main content

Fashion East Presented Johanna Parv and Olly Shinder at London Fashion Week AW24

by Emily Duff

This London Fashion Week, Fashion East, a ‘talent incubators,’ continues to showcase emerging designers. This season, the spotlight was on two talents - Olly Shinder and Johanna Parv - as they presented their Autumn/Winter 2024 collections, each a testament to their unique perspectives and design philosophies.

Menswear: Olly Shinder

Olly Shinder, the creative behind his eponymous brand, has swiftly become a name synonymous with challenging hypermasculine dress codes. 

Since its inception in just 2022, the brand has already become a trailblazer through blending the boundaries between fashion, art, and queer culture. Shinder's sophomore collection, titled 'Lab,' serves as a captivating exploration of the intersection between his personal narrative and the realms of workwear and military aesthetics.

The collection breathes life into seemingly mundane garments, as Shinder subverts archetypal dress codes with innovative cuts and materials. 

From rubberised gauntlets to MYKITA's avant-garde optical frames, every piece tells a story of rebellion and refinement. Collaborating with protective footwear specialist Magnum, the collection introduces hi-top boots that draw inspiration from industrial toe guards, offering a fusion of style and functionality.

Artistically directed by the London-based Novacaine, the runway transformed into a canvas where Shinder's nuanced interrogation of masculinity reached new heights. Models were carefully selected from London's progressive cultural niches, to converge fashion with nightlife scenes.

Womenswear: Johanna Parv

Johanna Parv, on her third and final show as part of Fashion East, propelled her label into a darker, sexier, and more technical space for AW24. 

With looks reminiscent of the near past’s ‘office-siren’ trend, we saw messenger bags and classic white shirts paired with sheer tops and low V-necks. 

Inspired by the relentless energy of the city, Parv's collection is a marriage of functionality and style, capturing the essence of inner-city cycling, morning commutes, and battling the elements.

The colour palette, balancing between browns and blacks to bursts of tourmaline-blue and aqua-green, paints a vivid picture of urban life. 

Parv's signature pieces of breathable shirts and lycra dresses introduced a new category; Techy Tailoring. Natural wool blazers, cycling jacket styles, insulated mini skirts, cut-out trousers, and intentional volume showcased Parv's meticulous attention to detail and functional design.

As a nod to sustainability, Parv also incorporated recycled nylons, natural fibres, and post-consumer plastics into her collection, aligning with fashions increasing conversations around environmental consciousness. 

Most Popular

‘Make Tattooing Safe Again’: Sheffield Based Tattoo Artist Exposed for Indecent Behaviour

 by Emily Fletcher TW: SA, Animal Abuse, Transphobia Photo Credit: @ meiko_akiz uki Recently, an  Instagram account  has been created to provide a  ‘space to safely give a voice to those who want to speak out about the behaviour of one, Sheffield based tattoo artist’. A  total of 40+ posts have been made by the above social media account regarding  one of Sheffield's most popular tattoo artists .  Thankfully, all posts are prefaced with a Content Warning prior to sharing screenshots of the messages that have been sent anonymously to the page. The majority of Content Warnings refer to sexual behaviour, abuse, and sexual assault. It is clear that there is a reoccurring theme within each submission, as many clients appear to have had the same experiences with the tattoo artist. Women, mostly, are being made to feel uncomfortable while being tattooed. One of the most vulnerable positions anyone can be in, tattoo artists should make their clients feel comfortable and safe during the pro

Fashion For a Cause: Brands That Stand with Palestine and the history of fashion as a form of Activism

by Oana-Maria Moldovan For over two months, there has been an ongoing genocide war in Gaza. To simplify a long and horrific issue, the situation that started, on a larger scale, around one hundred years ago, and has only become amplified since October 7th 2023. Taking place around the Gaza Strip, the West Bank, and Israel–Lebanon border, the armed conflict is between Israel and Hamas-led Palestinian militant groups.  The problem is about “stolen” land. Said land is seen as an important holy part of both religions involved. But really, how holy can we consider a land to be, if people kill other people for it? It’s important to remember that this genocide is about three things: forced occupation, zionism, and religion. It’s also important to remember what ethnic erasure is. This terrible expresion, also known as cultural or ethnic assimilation, refers to the process by which the distinct cultural or ethnic identity of a particular group is gradually diminished or erased, often due to ext

Now What? The Aftermath of the 'Manic Pixie Dream Girl'

by Susan Moore Here is a bit about me: I am an open, excitable, creative AFAB who is also moderately attractive. I have a unique sense of personal style and a personality that on the surface can only be described as “bubbly” and “quirky”. For this reason, dating is a nightmare. To be sure, I do not have a hard time finding dates or potential suitors. The problems arise when said dates spend some time with me and decide that I am a rare specimen, and the connection they feel with me is “unlike anything they have felt before”. Then, things go one of two ways.  Either a) they decide I am too high maintenance and no longer palatable, or  b) they choose to never look further than the surface and are content to date the idea of me rather than the real me. There is something rather interesting, perhaps funny, about my situation. It is in no way unique. I have met so many people who constantly dealt with the same problem. Even funnier still, is the fact that there is a trope that simultaneousl