by Lois Geal
Fashion’s Super Bowl, the 2025 Met Gala theme has officially been revealed, presenting a unique opportunity to reflect on the monumental impact of Black men in fashion today.
Held annually in New York City on the first Monday in May, the star-studded fundraiser provides viral support for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, linking its theme to their upcoming exhibition.
With this international platform, the gala also sets the stage for a thematic exploration that resonates deeply with contemporary culture.
On October 9th, Vogue announced “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” as the stylish retrospective coming in spring 2025.
This theme is particularly significant given the waves Black men are making in fashion today. From Pharrell Williams to Law Roach, their influence is undeniable. Dapper Dan’s recent acknowledgment in the In Vogue: The ‘90s show further underscores this cultural renaissance, highlighting how these figures are redefining menswear and Black identity.
Yet, this celebration also comes with a bittersweet note. It serves as a poignant reminder of the late André Leon Talley, a fashion journalist who worked closely with Anna Wintour, the Met Gala’s returning chair. Talley embodied dandyism, bringing visibility to Black narratives within fashion.
According to Vogue, the exhibition draws inspiration from Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, ‘Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity’. As such, it will feature “garments, paintings, photographs, and more – all exploring the indelible style of Black men in the context of dandyism, from the 18th-century through present day.”
Dandyism is both an identity and concept. Miller noted that the original dandies of the 1780s “paid distinct, and sometimes excessive attention to dress.” Similarly, the Oxford Dictionary defines a dandy as “a man who cares a lot about his clothes and appearance.”
Miller explained at a Costume Institute press conference, “In the 18th century, dandyism could be both a vehicle of enslavement and liberation. It was also imposed upon and quickly taken up by Black people swept up into the political realities of the time.” Continuing that the exhibition “explores the dialectic between being dandified and taking on dandyism as a means for self-fashioning. In the show, Black dandyism is a sartorial style that asks questions about identity, representation, mobility, race, class, gender, sexuality, power.”
In an Instagram post, Vogue further elaborated on this year's theme, stating it examines "the importance of clothing and style to the formation of Black identities in the Atlantic diaspora.”
The events celebrity hosts embody this; Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, and Pharrell Williams will serve as co-chairs alongside Anna Wintour, with NBA star LeBron James serving as an honorary co-chair.
As for what to expect to see; historical and contemporary garments, accessories, paintings, photos, film, and decorative art will be organised under 12 non-definitive sections to present dandyism as a sartorial style, detailing the evolution of the Black dandy.
Among the exhibit’s main themes are Ownership, Juke, and Cosmopolitanism.
Ownership will epitomise and describe the intersection between “being owned” and “owning it,” featuring a purple and gold-trimmed coat worn by an enslaved man from Maryland in the 1770s.
Juke will focus on Zoot suits, a finely tailored ensemble with an exaggerated silhouette that “gleefully amplifies the strut or turn on the dance floor,” as described by Miller, and worn by Malcom X. These Zoot suits, some from the 1940s, challenged societal perception around masculinity, sexuality, and acceptable Black propriety.
Lastly, Cosmopolitanism will explore Black dandyism in the context of an “interconnected, sophisticated Black diasporic world.”
Unsurprisingly, the work of several prominent Black designers will be on show. In its contemporary section, Grammy-winning producer, Met Gala co-chair, and Louis Vuitton’s Menswear Creative Director Pharrell Williams will be featured alongside designs from Off-White founder Virgil Abloh, who tragically passed in 2021 aged just 41.
“They’re all men who aren’t afraid to take risks with their self-presentation. They take advantage of classic forms, but they also remix them and break them down in really new ways,” said Andrew Bolton, Curator in Charge. “I think Black men and Black designers are very much at the forefront of this new renaissance in menswear.”
As we anticipate the accompanying dress code, this theme serves as a powerful reminder of the ongoing dialogue surrounding Black identity and style in fashion.
Edited by and additional text from Emily Duff