by Antonia Cortes
Acknowledging environmental impacts in the modern fashion world has become a well-known matter that only continues to grow.
Sustainability in fashion is the ability to take our already plentiful resources and turn them into new creations through creativity and upcycling.
While many fashion houses have found themselves incorporating this into their collections in recent years, Maison Martin Margiela has always been a pioneer for sustainable creative design.
Maison Margiela stood out from many designers during the ‘90s because this upcycling approach had never used by high end brands. Unlike Margiela, other luxury brands used exclusive textiles and materials.
The brands founder, Martin Margiela, made the decision to rework pre-existing materials because they were significantly cheaper than brand new ones.
Now in the 21st century, we see a lot of the same movements due to environmentally conscious decisions. Many brands in the fashion industry release collections with climate change in mind.
Yet, the battle against fast-fashion remains ongoing. With social media comes fast moving trends that drive companies to mass produce items with non-sustainable materials - and using unethical practices.
In opposition to fast fashion, slow fashion instead aims to reduce production and create longevity for garments.
With Margiela, 40 years ago sustainability was not a trend. Despite many critics at the time, Maison Margiela continued to push forward and was not afraid to go against traditional fashion norms.
The Parodi Costume Collection Museum in Miami, Florida exhibits some of Margiela’s creations.One being the Upcycled Prom Dress Top of Spring/Summer 1994, worn with solar Clock Ring
Necklace from Spring/Summer 1991. This garment was originally a flea market dress which was
transformed. Looking at this prom dress top today, it remains timeless and continues to contribute to fashion history.
Margiela was an experimental designer and his brand was a fairly new compared to others in the ‘90s, allowing him to experiment while becoming established. Margiela stepped outside of traditional haute couture and offered new ideas.
The brands Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 1992-1993 collection, titled “Salvation Army”, presented a dress made of recycled black leather from a coat used in the 70s along with other recycled materials.
Not only did Margiela create clothing items, but he also created accessories out of recycled
items. Items that would usually be found in junk drawers now found themselves being staple
pieces in necklaces.
He wanted to reinvent what “fashion” was. Fashion did not have to be defined by the expensive materials, but rather stylistic choices,
creative mindsets, and reinvention.
The 1990s were a great period of experimentation for Margiela, he created winter clothing made from old ski gloves, fitted trousers made from old belts, and so much more.
This ability to turn used garments into completely new products eventually became a hallmark of Margiela. He became known for this new style of fashion and set the stage for future generations in the fashion world.
Today, high end fashion brands aim to be both eco-friendly and innovative, just as Margeila was over 3 decades ago. His long-lasting designs and creative upcycling choices continue to influence the industry today.
Edited by Emily Duff